You want to go out to dinner. Maybe you’re tired of eating at home; maybe the larder is empty; maybe it’s your turn to provide and there’s no time. You want something that’s not a big-deal meal but not fast-casual either; it’s got to be a place with a full bar, lots of choices on the menu and, if you’re lucky, cloth napkins.
There are restaurants like this in every town — sometimes just one or two, sometimes too many to count. The menu always includes burgers, salads and sandwiches. Prices are reasonable. Often there are tacos and pizza, although these aren’t real taquerias and pizza restaurants. With the cloth napkins come a selection of entrees: steak, chicken, salmon and a fancy pasta.